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                都江堰


                作者:余秋雨 发布时间:2017-04-07 13:15:03 浏览

                 

                 www中国散文家网

                  我以为,中国历史上最激动人心的工程不是长城,而是都江堰。www中国散文家网
                长城当然也非常伟大,不管孟姜女们如何痛哭流涕,站远了看,这个苦难的民族竟用人力在野山荒漠间修了一条万里屏障,为我们生存的星球留下了一种人类意志力的骄傲。长城到了八达岭一带已经没有什么味道,而在甘肃、陕西、山西、内蒙一带,劲厉的寒风在时断时续的颓壁残垣间呼啸,淡淡的夕照、荒凉的旷野溶成一气,让人全身心地投入对历史、对岁月、对民族的巨大惊悸,感觉就深厚得多了。但是,就在秦始皇下令修长城的数十年前,四川平原上已经完成了一个了不起的工程。它的规模从表面上看远不如长城宏大,却注定要稳稳当当地造福千年。如果说,长城占据了辽阔的空间,那么,它却实实在在地占据了邈远的时间。长城的社会功用早已废弛,而它至今还在为无数发众输送汩汩清流。有了它,旱涝无常的四川平原成了天府之国,每当我们民族有了重大灾难,天府之国总是沉着地提供庇护和濡养。因此,可以毫不夸张地说,它永久性地灌溉了中华民族。有了它,才有诸葛亮、刘备的雄才大略,才有李白、杜甫、陆游的川行华章。说得近一点,有了它,抗日战争中的中国才有一个比较安定的后方。www中国散文家网
                它的水流不像万里长城那样突兀在外,而是细细浸润、节节延伸,延伸的距离并不比长城短。长城的文明是一种僵硬的雕塑,它的文明是一种灵动的生活。长城摆出一副老资格等待人们的修缮,它却卑处一隅,像一位绝不炫耀、毫无所求的乡间母亲,只知贡献。一查履历,长城还只是它的后辈,它就是都江堰。我去都江堰之前,以为它只是一个水利工程罢了,不会有太大的游观价值。连葛洲坝都看过了,它还能怎么样?只是要去青城山玩,得路过灌县县城,它就在近旁,就乘便看一眼吧。因此,在灌县下车,心绪懒懒的,脚步散散的,在街上胡逛,一心只想看青城山。www中国散文家网
                  七转八弯,从简朴的街市走进了一个草木茂盛的所在。脸面渐觉滋润,眼前愈显清朗,也没有谁指路,只向更滋润、更清朗的去处走。忽然,天地间开始有些异常,一种隐隐然的骚动,一种还不太响却一定是非常响的声音,充斥周际。如地震前兆,如海啸将临,如山崩即至,浑身起一种莫名的紧张,又紧张得急于趋附。不知是自己走去的还是被它吸去的,终于陡然一惊,我已站在伏龙观前,眼前,急流浩荡,大地震颤。即便是站在海边礁石上,也没有像这里强烈地领受到水的魅力。海水是雍容大度的聚会,聚会得太多太深,茫茫一片,让人忘记它是切切实实的水,可掬可捧的水。这里的水却不同,要说多也不算太多,但股股叠叠都精神焕发,合在一起比赛着飞奔的力量,踊跃着喧嚣的生命。这种比赛又极有规矩,奔着奔着,遇到江心的分水堤,刷地一下裁割为二,直窜出去,两股水分别撞到了一道坚坝,立即乖乖地转身改向,再在另一道坚坝上撞一下,于是又根据筑坝者的指令来一番调整……也许水流对自己的驯顺有点恼怒了,突然撒起野来,猛地翻卷咆哮,但越是这样越是显现出一种更壮丽的驯顺。已经咆哮到让人心魄俱夺,也没有一滴水溅错了方位。阴气森森间,延续着一场千年的收伏战。水在这里吃够了苦头也出足了风头,就像一场千年的收伏战。就像一大拨翻越各种障碍的马拉松健儿,把最强悍的生命付之于规整,付之于企盼,付之于众目睽睽。看云看雾看日出各有胜地,要看水,万不可忘了都江堰。这一切,首先要归功于遥远得看不出面影的李冰。四川有幸,公元前251年出现过一项毫不惹人注目的任命:李冰任蜀郡守。www中国散文家网
                  此后中国千年官场的惯例,是把一批批有所执持的学者遴选为无所专攻的官僚,而李冰,却因官位而成了一名实践科学家。这里明显地出现了两种判然不同的政治走向,在李冰看来,政治的含义是浚理,是消灾,是滋润,是濡养,它要实施的事儿,既具体又质朴。他领受了一个连孩单都能领悟的简单道理:既然四川最大的困扰是旱涝,那么四川的统治者必须成为水利学家。www中国散文家网
                  前不久我曾接到一位极有作为的市长的名片,上面的头衔只印了“土木工程师”,我立即追想到了李冰。  没有证据可以说明李冰的政治才能,但因有过他,中国也就有过了一种冰清玉洁的政治纲领。www中国散文家网
                  他是郡守,手握一把长锸,站在滔滔的江边,完成了一个“守”字的原始造型。那把长锸,千年来始终与金杖玉玺、铁戟钢锤反复辩论。他失败了,终究又胜利了。www中国散文家网
                  他开始叫人绘制水系图谱。这图谱,可与今天的裁军数据、登月线路遥相呼应。www中国散文家网
                  他当然没有在哪里学过水利。但是,以使命为学校,死钻几载,他总结出治水三字经“深淘滩,低作堰”、八字真言“遇湾截角,逢正抽心”,直到20世纪仍是水利工程的圭臬。他的这点学问,永远水气淋漓,而后于他不知多少年的厚厚典籍,却早已风干,松脆得无法翻阅。www中国散文家网
                  他没有料到,他治水的韬略很快被替代成治人的计谋;他没有料到,他想灌溉的沃土将会时时成为战场,沃土上的稻谷将有大半充作军粮。他只知道,这个人要想不灭绝,就必须要有清泉和米粮。  他大愚,又大智。他大拙,又大巧。他以田间老农的思维,进入了最澄彻的人类学的思考。他未曾留下什么生平资料,只留下硬扎扎的水坝一座,让人们去猜详。人们到这儿一次次纳闷:这是谁呢?死于两千年前,却明明还在指挥水流。站在江心的岗亭前,“你走这边,他走那边”的吆喝声、劝诫声、慰抚声,声声入耳。没有一个人能活得这样长寿。www中国散文家网
                  秦始皇筑长城的指令,雄壮、蛮吓、残忍;他筑堰的指令,智慧、仁慈、透明。www中国散文家网
                  有什么样的起点就会有什么样的延续。长城半是壮胆半是排场,世世代代,大体是这样。直到今天,长城还常常成为排场。都江堰一开始就清朗可鉴,结果,它的历史也总显出超乎寻常的格调。李冰在世时已考虑事业的承续,命令自己的儿子作3个石人,镇于江间,测量水位。李冰逝世400年后,也许3个石人已经损缺,汉代水官重造高及3米的“三神石人”测量水位。这“三神石人”其中一尊即是李冰雕像。这位汉代水官一定是承接了李冰的伟大精魂,竟敢于把自己尊敬的祖师,放在江中镇水测量。他懂得李冰的心意,唯有那里才是他最合适的岗位。这个设计竟然没有遭到反对而顺利实施,只能说都江堰为自己流泻出了一个独特的精神世界。www中国散文家网
                  石像终于被岁月的淤泥掩埋,本世纪70年代出土时,有一尊石像头部已经残缺,手上还紧握着长锸。有人说,这是李冰的儿子。即使不是,我仍然把他看成是李冰的儿子。一位现代作家见到这尊塑像怦然心动,“没淤泥而蔼然含笑,断颈项而长锸在握”,作家由此而向现代官场衮衮诸公诘问:活着或死了应站在哪里?出土的石像现正在伏龙观里展览。人们在轰鸣如雷的水声中向他们默默祭奠。在这里,我突然产生了对中国历史的某种乐观。只要都江堰不坍,李冰的精魂就不会消散,李冰的儿子会代代繁衍。轰鸣的江水便是至圣至善的遗言。继续往前走,看到了一条横江索桥。桥很高,桥索由麻绳、竹篾编成。跨上去,桥身就猛烈摆动,越犹豫进退,摆动就越大。在这样高的地方偷看桥下会神志慌乱,但这是索桥,到处漏空,由不得你不看。一看之下,先是惊叹。脚下的江流,从那么遥远的地方奔来,一派义无反顾的决绝势头,挟着寒风,吐着白沫,凌厉锐进。我站得这么高还感觉到了它的砭肤冷气,估计它是从雪山赶来的罢。但是,再看桥的另一边,它硬是化作许多亮闪闪的河渠,改恶从善。人对自然力的驯服,干得多么爽利。如果人类干什么事都这么爽利,地球早已是另一副模样。www中国散文家网
                  但是,人类总是缺乏自信,进进退退,走走停停,不断自我耗损,又不断地为耗损而再耗损。结果,仅仅多了一点自信的李冰,倒成了人们心中的神。离索桥东端不远的玉垒山麓,建有一座二王庙,祭祀李冰父子。人们在虔诚膜拜,膜拜自己同类中更像一点人的人。钟鼓钹磬,朝朝暮暮,重一声,轻一声,伴和着江涛轰鸣。www中国散文家网
                  李冰这样的人,是应该找个安静的地方好好纪念一下的,造个二王庙,也合民众心意。www中国散文家网
                  实实在在为民造福的人升格为神,神的世界也就会变得通情达理、平适可亲。中国宗教颇多世俗气息,因此,世俗人情也会染上宗教式的光斑。一来二去,都江堰倒成了连接两界的桥墩。www中国散文家网
                  我到边远地区看傩戏,对许多内容不感兴趣,特别使我愉快的是,傩戏中的水神河伯,换成了灌县李冰。傩戏中的水神李冰比二王庙中的李冰活跃得多,民众围着他狂舞呐喊,祈求有无数个都江堰带来全国的风调雨顺,水土滋润。傩戏本来都以神话开头的,有了一个李冰,神话走向实际,幽深的精神天国,一下子帖近了大地,贴近了苍生。www中国散文家网
                www中国散文家网


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