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                厨房里的看客


                作者:莫言 发布时间:2017-04-07 13:14:06 浏览

                 

                VVV中国散文家网

                  多年来我脑子里没有厨房的概念。当兵前在农村,做饭是母亲的事,与小孩子无关;即便是农村的大男人,几乎也没有下厨房做饭的,如果大男人下厨房做饭,会让人瞧不起。严格说起来农村也没有厨房,一进门就是堂屋,屋里垒着两个大灶,安着两口巨大的铁锅,完全可以把小孩子放进去洗澡。VVV中国散文家网
                  为什么要用这样的大锅?那是因为锅里不但要煮人吃的饭,还要煮猪吃的食,而且农村人的饭量比城里人要大得多,食物又粗糙,锅小了是不行的。除了这两口大锅,堂屋里还要安一张桌子,安不起桌子就用砖头垒一个台子,台子的洞里放着碟子碗筷之类,台面上就是安放祖先牌位的地方,侮辱了这地方,就跟侮辱了祖先是一样的。我的邻居家女人和人打架,实在打不过,就跑到人家的堂屋里,爬上那个供奉祖先牌位的地方,脱下了裤子。VVV中国散文家网
                  她这一手非常厉害,村子里几乎没有不怕的。堂屋的一角,是堆放柴草的地方,我们管那里叫草旮旯,天气寒冷时,猪就钻到那里睡觉。在我当兵以前,母亲要往锅里贴饼子时,经常让我帮她烧火,烟熏火燎,灰土飞扬,农村的厨房可不是个好玩的地方。我不愿帮母亲烧火,但很愿看母亲收拾鱼。吃鱼的机会很少,一年也就是那么三两次。VVV中国散文家网
                  每逢母亲收拾鱼,我就蹲在旁边看,一边看,一边问,还忍不住伸手,母亲就训斥我:“腥乎乎的,动什么?”当兵之后,连队里有大伙房,里边安的锅更大,不但小孩子可以进去洗澡,大人进去洗也没有问题。我很想当炊事员,因为炊事员进步比较快,立功受奖的机会多,可惜领导不让我当。VVV中国散文家网
                  星期天,我经常到伙房里去帮厨,体验大锅里炒菜的滋味。那把炒菜的锅铲差不多就是一把挖地的铁锹,打起仗来完全可以当做武器。用那样的大锅铲翻动着满锅的大白菜,那感觉真是妙极了。大锅里炒出来的菜,味道格外的好,无论多么高明的厨师也难做出军队里大锅菜的味道。我吃了将近二十年这样的大锅菜,感觉着已经吃得很烦,但脱离军队几年之后,又有些怀念。我四十岁的时候,终于有了自家的厨房。厨房是妻子的地盘,我轻易不进去,进去反而添乱。但只要是她收拾鱼的时候,无论多么忙,我也要进去看看。当然是她收拾海鱼时,收拾淡水鱼我是不看的,淡水鱼太腥,而且多半活着。海里的鱼能让我想起少年时期,想起许多的往事。青鱼来了时,应该是残冬初春时节,母亲说,看青鱼鲜不鲜,主要看它们的眼睛,如果它们的眼睛红得沁血,说明很新鲜,如果眼睛不红了,就说明不新鲜了。前面我说过,我们一年里吃不到几次鱼,我每次看母亲收拾鱼就听母亲给我讲关于鱼的知识。她说的也是她的童年记忆。那时好像鱼很多。四月里,新鲜带鱼上市,母亲说,你姥姥家门前那条大街上一片银白,全是鱼,那些带鱼又宽又厚,放到锅里一煎,滋滋地冒油。VVV中国散文家网
                  现在,这些带鱼,瘦得像高粱叶子,母亲愤愤不平地说,它们也配叫带鱼?还有什么大黄花鱼、小黄花鱼、偏口鱼、披毛鱼、那时的鱼真多啊,价钱也便宜,现在,鱼都到哪里去了呢?母亲说。现在我到厨房里看妻子收拾鱼,其实是借这个类似的场境回忆童年,回忆母亲的回忆,这就如同打通了一条时间的隧道,我一下子就回到了母亲的童年时代甚至更早,那时候,高密东北乡的鱼市上,一片银光闪烁,那是新鲜的海鱼在闪光。VVV中国散文家网
                VVV中国散文家网


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